Maintained correctly, leather long retains its flexibility, its elasticity, its beautiful luster. All shod man of impeccable shoes gives a positive image of himself. In contrast, shoes neglected dries and becomes brittle in the folds. The life of the shoe becomes short.

The box set "ideal" must contain a cleaning scrub brush. The bristles of these relatively hard brushes easily remove dried mud and other stains.
Polishing brushes, are more flexible and are used to apply the polish. It is advisable to use a brush for each color shine. Without the use of cloth will also be necessary.

Shoe polish or cream should be enriched with beeswax and be manufactured with the greatest possible natural element. Should be used a shoe polish that matches the color of your shoe. If you want them to quickly take a patina, better to choose a slightly darker shade of polish the leather.

You shall pour regularly a thin layer of cream on the leather, and then you let penetrate for a few minutes.
Your kit will also contain a polishing brush or cloth to polish, shoe polish impregnated with wax.



The slightest stain should be removed with a brush, because the function of polish is not clean but nourish the leather by providing substances (grease, wax and humidity) he loses to use.

Waxing should be spread in a slow circular motion and accurately by measuring the quantity leather needs. Abusing polish is useless, because the excess does not go into the skin and the leather is then difficult to polish.

If the leather is dry it is necessary to let penetrate the first layer of wax for ten minutes before applying the second.

Because of their punctures, flowered end models require intensive care and often tedious. Waxing entering the holes must be removed by brush, until there remains no trace.

The sole and heel must also be waxed, the assembly will then rubbed through a silk cloth (or clean cotton) by performing transverse movements.



The glazing is the ultimate art of shoe polish. Reserved for the real enthusiast of the shoe, everyone does not necessarily appreciate this specificity.

Everything starts with a good brush to remove dust from the shoes. Professionals will use (optional) then the turpentine (which does not attack the leather) to dissolve affixed polishes.
A colorless milk feeding is applied, the shoe should then be allowed to stand for a moment. Then begins the waxing phase to be applied to crudely cloth stretched over your middle and index. With a brush all the excess wax is removed.

The glazing operation can begin: a soft cotton cloth, paste polish and a bit of warm water for the purists.

We recommend you start with a few drops of water before the first layer of dough, then mix the two components emphasizing the work on the tip and back.
The mixture of water and waxing is performed by a small amount.
The circular motion creating heat on the leather, the mixture of wax and water will crystallize the wax particles.

Nothing serves to scrub hard, because the glazing is a touch art, the touch frostwalker know which operation level it is. If the cloth reveals a fat sensation on the leather is that it lacks a little water. On the contrary if the leather becomes mat is that it is necessary to add polish.

Glazing takes between 20 and 25 minutes, mastery and expertise will come with practice.
In the end you get a mirror leather, glistening on the tip and the foothills of the shoe.
Of course the glazing fades as the shoe is worn. It is advisable to pass a soft cloth every time and renew glazing operation every 3-4 days of wearing the shoe.

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